COSMETIC DETAILED DESCRIPTION & MEDICAL EXPERIMENTS

Research of the essential oil extracted by hydro distillation or by means of an extraction fluid preferably at or close to the supercritical state from the plant material of the flower tops of a plant, known as the flower summit, and belonging to the Asterasceae (daisy) family: Helichrysum Italicum variety serotinum has been conducted in order to comprehend the beneficial virtues of the different chemical compositions of the flower and its cosmetic properties.

The hydroxyl radical is a very reactive molecule, the production of which is activated by the different stresses to which the skin is subjected, pollution, UV, temperature changes and stressful aggressions. This radical is responsible for numerous waste products in the cell and especially the degradation of the membranes by the phenomenon of lipid peroxidation. Sounds confusing? In fact this radical is responsible for all the “not wanted waste” found in your cell which is activated due to stress; unfortunately it also declines the membranes of your cells due to a surge of lipid peroxidation.

The experiments and tests carried out will show you the realistic results of Helichrysum Italicum in skin care and its effectiveness upon wrinkles. This method, used by the cosmetic technicians, makes it possible to test the protective action of the essential oil on liposomes, cell membranes for the rest of us, subjected to an attack by hydroxyl radicals (OH-).

The action of free radicals on the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the membranes is a “peroxidation” which leads to the formation of conjugated dienes absorbing at 233 nm. The activity of the antioxidants is, therefore, determined by their capacity to prevent peroxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids contained in liposomes. This peroxidation is characterized by an absorption peak at 233 nm. Cosmetic technicians found that the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum inhibits lipid peroxidation by 82%+2% under the experimental conditions. This result is remarkably positive.

Tested under the same operating conditions, an essential oil of lavender inhibited lipid peroxidation by 19%+2%. This is a great explanation as to why Helichrysum Italicum is as efficient as an anti ageing in cosmetic skin care.

This antiradical activity is essential in the battle against accelerated aging. The preferential targets of the free radicals are the lipids of the cell membranes. By attacking them, they disturb the meticulous organization. The membrane loses its fluidity and its cohesion. In the long term, it breaks up and can no longer fulfil its role as a protective barrier. The connecting tissue, constituted essentially of collagen, is also affected. This accelerates the aging process. That explains that then! We all need to protect our lipids with Helichrysum Italicum.

Two simple concepts should be kept in mind to better comprehend the phenomenon of accelerated aging :

These two main reasons should be kept in mind which will help you to understand better the phenomenon of accelerated ageing. Just a small comment, it’s a bit of paradox that we spend much of our youth trying to look older and the best part of adulthood trying to look younger.

I’m sure the amount of research and hard work over a long period of time of such quality by the cosmetic technicians can only, and I’m sure you’ll agree readers, be immensely thanked.

In the search for a stable state, the free radicals are very active and induce noteworthy reactional modifications within the cell, modifications that can reach the DNA and the amino acids. They depolymerize the glycoprotein constituents of the fundamental substance such as hyaluronic acid. This is the stuff that re-pulps your lips, naturally, or other parts of, more commonly, your face.

I think that most of us recognize the term “free radicals”, and no, it’s not a political movement just the little monsters responsible for wrinkles. The free radicals have a profoundly negative impact on the lipids, proteins and other components of the cell membrane. The attacks on the cell membranes, due to the peroxidation process, increase with age. Peroxides and free radicals are directly linked with this latter mentioned process. These studies also showed the importance of antioxidants in the longevity process. In fact, the animal or plant cell protects itself against oxidation agents by means of enzyme systems and natural antioxidants.

Helichrysum italicum essential oil has been found to be an effective natural antioxidant.

A Composition for the Face
The following formulation of a product for the face containing 0.7% of essential oil of Helichrysum italicum was prepared to demonstrate antiwrinkle activity:

The study of the cutaneous relief was performed. The test involved 20 volunteer subjects. Application of cosmetics or other topical products was discontinued 48 hours prior to the beginning of the experiment. The product was applied each morning for four weeks and the following parameters were evaluated:

Total Wrinkled Surface:

The results for these three parameters were very satisfactory and demonstrated the remarkable antiwrinkle property of the compositions according to the invention. Biomechanical properties of the skin with the composition for the face lead to the recruitment of twenty users for daily application over a four week period.

Result: UR/UB=R5: firmness under stress: +14.7%+0.11.
The composition for the face above provides a good cutaneous firmness. Evaluation of the hydration by the prints method with the composition for the face
Twenty users were recruited for a daily application over four weeks.

Result: The parameter AR=Average roughness decreased by 8.9%, which was manifested by cutaneous smoothness, i.e., a hydrating effect. Encapsulation of Helichrysum italicum essential oil in nanospheres.

The oil was incorporated in nanospheres to optimize the activity of Helichrysum italicum essential oil. This method has the advantage of increasing the bio availability of the active ingredients. Their controlled release augments the chrono availability at the level of the cutaneous cells. The Helichrysum italicum essential oil was encapsulated in spherulites. Spherulites are multilamellar vesicles of approximately one micron which imitate the structure of an onion. The hundreds of membranes of which they are composed form an alternation of bilayers containing sucroester and an optimized level of essential oils. Because of the slow and controlled release of the active ingredient, the spherulites make it possible to reduce the percentage of essential oil while still retaining the same level of efficacy. The benefit is a very improved tolerance, hypoallergenic and an activation of the microcirculation.

This is the example used to demonstrate the cosmetic virtues on the skin. This was done in the form of a facial cream.

A study of the cutaneous relief was performed using the prints method. The experiment involved 20 volunteer subjects. Applications of cosmetics or other topical products were suspended 48 hours prior to the beginning of the experiment. The product was applied every morning over four weeks and the following parameters were evaluated:

Total Wrinkled Surface:

This parameter provides information on the total surface area of the wrinkles (mm<2>)

Average Depth of the Wrinkles (Taking into Account the Number of Wrinkles That Had Disappeared after Treatment):
A decrease of 19.8%. Now that’s even better.
The results for these three parameters were very satisfactory and demonstrated the remarkable antiwrinkle property of the compositions according to the invention. Study of the biomechanical properties of the skin with the composition in nanospheres.
Twenty users were recruited for daily administration over four weeks.

Result: UR/UB=R5: firmness under stress: +14.7%+0.11.
The composition of the composition in nanosphere above provides good cutaneous firmness.

Result: The parameter AR=Average roughness decreased by 8.9%, which was manifested by cutaneous smoothness, i.e., a hydrating effect.