The
hydroxyl radical is a very reactive molecule, the production
of which is activated by the different stresses to which the
skin is subjected, pollution, UV, temperature changes and
stressful aggressions. This radical is responsible for numerous
waste products in the cell and especially the degradation
of the membranes by the phenomenon of lipid peroxidation.
Sounds confusing? In fact this radical is responsible for
all the “not wanted waste” found in your cell
which is activated due to stress; unfortunately it also declines
the membranes of your cells due to a surge of lipid peroxidation.
The
experiments and tests carried out will show you the realistic
results of Helichrysum Italicum in skin care and its effectiveness
upon wrinkles. This method, used by the cosmetic technicians,
makes it possible to test the protective action of the essential
oil on liposomes, cell membranes for the rest of us, subjected
to an attack by hydroxyl radicals (OH-).
The action of free radicals on the polyunsaturated fatty acids
of the membranes is a “peroxidation” which leads
to the formation of conjugated dienes absorbing at 233 nm.
The activity of the antioxidants is, therefore, determined
by their capacity to prevent peroxidation of polyunsaturated
fatty acids contained in liposomes. This peroxidation is characterized
by an absorption peak at 233 nm. Cosmetic technicians found
that the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum inhibits lipid
peroxidation by 82%+2% under the experimental conditions.
This result is remarkably positive. Tested under the same
operating conditions, an essential oil of lavender inhibited
lipid peroxidation by 19%+2%. This is a great explanation
as to why Helichrysum Italicum is as efficient as an anti
ageing in cosmetic skin care.
This antiradical activity is essential in the battle against
accelerated aging. The preferential targets of the free radicals
are the lipids of the cell membranes. By attacking them, they
disturb the meticulous organization. The membrane loses its
fluidity and its cohesion. In the long term, it breaks up
and can no longer fulfil its role as a protective barrier.
The connecting tissue, constituted essentially of collagen,
is also affected. This accelerates the aging process. That
explains that then! We all need to protect our lipids with
Helichrysum Italicum.
Two
simple concepts should be kept in mind to better comprehend
the phenomenon of accelerated aging:
These two main reasons should be kept in mind which will help
you to understand better the phenomenon of accelerated ageing.
Just a small comment, it’s a bit of paradox that we
spend much of our youth trying to look older and the best
part of adulthood trying to look younger.
The first is an atom, which has an electrically neutral set
of elements in equilibrium.
The second is a free radical, which is an atom possessing
a single electron which confers upon the radical a very high
degree of reactivity in the search for another electron to
restore a stable state.
I’m sure the amount of research and hard work over a
long period of time of such quality by the cosmetic technicians
can only, and I’m sure you’ll agree readers, be
immensely thanked.
In the search for a stable state, the free radicals are very
active and induce noteworthy reactional modifications within
the cell, modifications that can reach the DNA and the amino
acids. They depolymerize the glycoprotein constituents of
the fundamental substance such as hyaluronic acid. This is
the stuff that re pulps your lips, naturally, or other parts
of, more commonly, your face. I think that most of us recognize
the term “free radicals”, and no, it’s not
a political movement just the little monsters responsible
for wrinkles.
The free radicals have a profoundly negative impact on the
lipids, proteins and other components of the cell membrane.
The attacks on the cell membranes, due to the peroxidation
process, increase with age. Peroxides and free radicals are
directly linked with this latter mentioned process. These
studies also showed the importance of antioxidants in the
longevity process. In fact, the animal or plant cell protects
itself against oxidation agents by means of enzyme systems
and natural antioxidants.
Helichrysum italicum essential oil has been found to be an
effective natural antioxidant.
A Composition for the Face
The following formulation of a product for the face containing
0.7% of essential oil of Helichrysum italicum was prepared
to demonstrate antiwrinkle activity:
<Tb><Sep>Essential oil of Helichrysum italicum<Sep>0.7
<Tb><Sep>Grapestone oil<Sep>80.02
<Tb><Sep>Borage oil<Sep>1
<Tb><Sep>Natural perhydrosqualene<Sep>18
<Tb><Sep>Natural vitamin E<Sep>0.2
<Tb><Sep>Rosemary extract<Sep>0.05
<Tb><Sep>Geranium essential oil<Sep>0.03
The study of the cutaneous relief was performed. The test
involved 20 volunteer subjects. Application of cosmetics or
other topical products was discontinued 48 hours prior to
the beginning of the experiment. The product was applied each
morning for four weeks and the following parameters were evaluated:
Total
Wrinkled Surface:
This parameter provides information on the total surface area
of the wrinkles (mm<2> )
Average at Time 0=4.571 mm<2 >
Average at Time 4 weeks =2.843 mm<2 >
Thus, a decrease of 37.8%.
Number of Wrinkles:
Average at Time 0=61.3
Average at Time 4 weeks =52.7
Thus, a decrease of 14%.
Average Depth of the Wrinkles (Taking into account the number
of wrinkles that had disappeared after treatment):
A decrease of 19.8%.
The results for these three parameters were very satisfactory
and demonstrated the remarkable antiwrinkle property of the
compositions according to the invention. Biomechanical properties
of the skin with the composition for the face lead to the
recruitment of twenty users for daily application over a four
week period.
Result: UR/UB=R5: firmness under stress: +14.7%+0.11.
The composition for the face above provides a good cutaneous
firmness. Evaluation of the hydration by the prints method
with the composition for the face
Twenty users were recruited for a daily application over four
weeks.
Result: The parameter AR=Average roughness decreased by 8.9%,
which was manifested by cutaneous smoothness, i.e., a hydrating
effect. Encapsulation of Helichrysum italicum essential oil
in nanospheres.
The
oil was incorporated in nanospheres to optimize the activity
of Helichrysum italicum essential oil. This method has the
advantage of increasing the bio availability of the active
ingredients. Their controlled release augments the chrono
availability at the level of the cutaneous cells. The Helichrysum
italicum essential oil was encapsulated in spherulites. Spherulites
are multilamellar vesicles of approximately one micron which
imitate the structure of an onion. The hundreds of membranes
of which they are composed form an alternation of bilayers
containing sucroester and an optimized level of essential
oils. Because of the slow and controlled release of the active
ingredient, the spherulites make it possible to reduce the
percentage of essential oil while still retaining the same
level of efficacy. The benefit is a very improved tolerance,
hypoallergenic and an activation of the microcirculation.
This
is the example used to demonstrate the cosmetic virtues
on the skin. This was done in the form of a facial cream.
<Tb><Sep>Helichrysum italicum spherulites<Sep>2
<Tb><Sep>Fatty alcohol<Sep>4
<Tb><Sep>Grapestone oil<Sep>5
<Tb><Sep>Glycerol<Sep>5
<Tb><Sep>Rosemary extract<Sep>0.05
<Tb><Sep>Vitamin A<Sep>0.2
<Tb><Sep>Natural vitamin E<Sep>0.2
<Tb><Sep>Surface-active agents<Sep>5
<Tb><Sep>Preservatives<Sep>0.9
<Tb><Sep>Perfumed based<Sep>0.5
<Tb><Sep>Demineralised water<Sep>Q.S.
A
study of the cutaneous relief was performed using the prints
method. The experiment involved 20 volunteer subjects. Applications
of cosmetics or other topical products were suspended 48 hours
prior to the beginning of the experiment. The product was
applied every morning over four weeks and the following parameters
were evaluated:
Total Wrinkled Surface:
This parameter provides information on the total surface area
of the wrinkles (mm<2>)
Average at Time 0=4.571 mm<2 >
Average at Time 4 weeks=2.843 mm<2 >
A decrease of 37.8%.
Number of Wrinkles:
Average at Time 0=61.3
Average at Time 4 weeks =52.7
Thus, a decrease of 14%/ which is pretty good.
Average Depth of the Wrinkles (Taking into Account the Number
of Wrinkles That Had Disappeared after Treatment):
A decrease of 19.8%. Now that’s even better.
The results for these three parameters were very satisfactory
and demonstrated the remarkable antiwrinkle property of the
compositions according to the invention. Study of the biomechanical
properties of the skin with the composition in nanospheres.
Twenty users were recruited for daily administration over
four weeks.
Result: UR/UB=R5: firmness under stress: +14.7%+0.11.
The composition of the composition in nanosphere above provides
good cutaneous firmness.
Result: The parameter AR=Average roughness decreased by 8.9%,
which was manifested by cutaneous smoothness, i.e., a hydrating
effect.